We should start with the most important aspect of any horse stall, the wood. You can pick from normal lumber boarding, southern yellow pine, or hard-wood. 2×6 boards (usually 5.5” wide) should be the smallest size used to maintain competent tensile strength.
Hardwood is the typically the most durable pick with only two little cautions; be sure it’s properly dried out or you will get shrinking and open up some gaps between the boards – a sure invite for some cribbing, and if the stall hardware is made to take standard lumber, make quite certain that the hardwood is cut to a thickness of 1.5. Southern yellow pine is much stronger and more durable than SPF, yet lumber yard SPF is still the most widely used due to the fact that it is widely available, not terribly high in price, and is strong enough for most horse stall installations.
The final decision in regards to lumber should be on whether or not to use tongue & groove boards. The tongue and groove carpentry technique is very good at locking the boards together, but there are a few reservations about it that needs to be laid out. Firstly, the wood is quite a bit more costly and the tongue and groove schema demands that the boards are a bit more narrow. This means you will need more boards in the installation than you had likely, initially, counted upon.
If one does not wish to go for the more expensive tongue and groove techniques you can bind the boarding of your horse installation together with bracing – either wood or metal, or you can implement a wide array of fixing methods in between the boarding.
If one has horse stalls by classic which are aligned in a row, you will need to choose whether or not you wish to have hard wood in between the stalls and grills uniformly.
Solid wood is strong, reliable and not very pricey. The perks of grilled separating walls is that it lets your horses better intermingle, socialize and increases airflow. Some advanced and forward-looking horse-stall architects are beginning to combine walls together, partially grilled and partially solid. The solid section provides better seclusion for rest, specifically when you are feeding your animals.
The next step is to choose what kind of stall hardware you want. The most elemental of these decisions should rotate around the gap spacing in the bars. Equine veterinarians say the highest apart the bars should be placed is two and three-fourths. A adult hoof can fit in between these bars if they are placed any further apart and this can lead to injuries, of the handlers, if the horse is frightened, or of the horse itself.
The next step should be about construction, welded frames or pre-drilled and assembled steel, iron and aluminum framing. Welded frames are typically much more quickly assembled, however they are also usually much more expensive. Stall set-ups that are DIY have a perk, and that is that they are very easy to modify, provided that the barn posts are not in difficult locations.
Lastly, decide on whether it shall be steel or aluminum. Steel is, fairly obviously, the stronger of the two metals, but regardless of it’s coating it will eventually rust, so try and keep that in mind when coming to a decision. Aluminum, by contrast, will look new consistently, even years and decades down the line but may not be able to bear the brunt of the stresses your stall may require, depending on it’s size.